Visiting Crete in November feels a bit like having one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful islands all to yourself. The crowds vanish, the heat softens into a perfect 19–22°C (ideal for us Canadians), and the entire coastline glows in that crisp, golden shoulder-season light.
On one especially warm, sunny day we set out to explore Elounda—a charming, laid-back seaside town on the northeastern edge of Crete—and attempted the mini-adventure out to Kolokitha Beach. It turned into one of our favourite days of the trip.
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Elounda in the Off-Season
In summer, Elounda buzzes with day-trippers and boats zipping out to nearby islands, hidden coves, and swimming spots. In November? It’s blissfully quiet. We wandered the waterfront without another tourist in sight, watched fishing boats sway at the marina, and soaked in the warm sun that felt more like late June than almost-winter.
The best part: Soft light, calm water, empty beaches.
Tours You Can Usually Take from Elounda (But Were Closed for the Season)
Even though everything was shuttered while we were there, here’s what typically runs out of Elounda in warmer months:
- Spinalonga Island Tour
The iconic trip to the former leper colony—one of Crete’s most important historic sites. - Cave of Barbossa Tour + Kolokitha Beach Swim
A stunning coastal ride to the sea cave, usually paired with a beach stop. - Snorkeling & Small-Boat Adventures
Exploring the coastline, hidden coves, and glass-calm turquoise water.
We were honestly sad to miss these, especially the Barbarossa Cave tour, which includes a boat-only approach to Kolokitha Beach. But November meant no boats… so we took the land route. And wow—what a story.
Getting to Kolokitha Beach by Land: Beautiful… and Slightly Terrifying
If you can’t get there by boat, you technically can drive and hike your way to Kolokitha. But let’s be clear: this isn’t your typical “drive to a beach” situation.
Here’s the route:
1. Drive Across the Freakishly Small Peninsula
You head out over a tiny strip of land that feels barely wider than your car—no exaggeration. It’s essentially a natural causeway with water on both sides, so close that the waves literally lap up onto the road as you drive. One moment you’re admiring the bright turquoise water, the next you’re wondering if the sea is about to casually wash across your tires. It’s gorgeous… but also mildly unsettling in that “Are we supposed to be driving here?” kind of way.
2. Take the Extremly Narrow Gravel Cliffside Road (No Guardrails—Yikes)
This is where your heart rate spikes a little. The road is rough, squeezed tight, and perched over the sparkling Mirabello Bay.
If you meet another car—good luck. One of you is reversing.
3. Park and Walk (Unless You Have a 4×4)
Most cars can’t safely continue, so we stopped and hiked the last stretch:
10 minutes down a steep, rocky path that feels more like a goat trail than an actual route.
4. Arrive at a Shockingly Beautiful Beach
Kolokitha in November is empty, wild, and breathtaking.
No umbrellas. No tour crowds. Just bright water, jagged rocks, and silence.
A little raw, a little rugged, and totally worth the effort.
Lunch in Elounda: FoodDrink Olous
Back in town, we settled in at FoodDrink Olous, a cozy waterfront spot that felt like the perfect off-season treat.
We ordered:
- Crispy, gooey saganaki
- Fresh warm pita
- Calamari
- A glass (or two) of local red wine
Simple, delicious, and very Greek.
The Ancient Windmills: Views Worth the Cliffside Drive
Since we were already in “scary roads of Crete” mode, we also visited the Ancient Windmills of Elounda, perched high above the town.
The drive up?
Another narrow cliff-hugging road that we tackled very, very slowly.
The windmills themselves are modest—stone towers dating back centuries, once used to grind grain using the fierce Cretan winds. They’re weathered, partially restored in areas, but nothing dramatic.
The panoramic views from the top, however?
Absolutely spectacular.
Mirabello Bay spreads out like a painting: deep blues, tiny boats, Elounda shimmering below. It’s one of the most underrated viewpoints in eastern Crete.
| The Syps Family Elounda (and Kolokitha Beach) Tip Box ⛱️ Rent a SMALL car. The roads around Elounda—especially the peninsula and windmill routes—are incredibly narrow, winding, and often cliffside. A small car makes passing other vehicles (and staying sane) much easier. We use localrent.com for the best local deals. ⛱️ Bring a Portable Beach Blanket. Kolokitha Beach is rocky, especially in the off-season with no amenities. A compact beach blanket makes sitting, lounging, or drying off way more comfortable. ⛱️ Wear Proper Footwear. If you’re accessing Kolokitha by land, the last stretch is steep and rocky. Sneakers or hiking sandals are much better than flip-flops. I wore my trusty Tevas! ⛱️ Bring Water & Snacks. There are no facilities at the beach—no kiosks, no tavernas, no washrooms. Come prepared. ⛱️ Go in Daylight Only. With early sunsets, make sure you tackle the cliffside roads and the rocky hike while the sun is still high. You do not want to drive these roads in the dark. |
The Syps Survivial Summary
Did we survive the sketchy tiny peninsula drive to Kolokitha Beach? Barely.
At one point the waves were literally splashing onto the road, the cliffside gravel lane felt like a two-way path designed exclusively for goats, and our car seemed one sneeze away from slipping into the Aegean. But we powered through—with equal parts courage and questionable decision-making.
Elounda in November is a gem: warm sun, peaceful vibes, empty beaches, and some of the most photogenic landscapes in Crete. Sure, getting to Kolokitha by land feels like a mild endurance challenge, and the ancient windmill road tests your commitment to adventure—but every view, every quiet moment, and every bite of saganaki makes it worth it.
If you want beautiful weather, no crowds, and just a hint of adrenaline, Elounda in the off-season might be your perfect day trip.