Ha Long Bay, Lan Ha Bay, Bai Tu Long Bay… which one do you choose? If you’ve gone down the rabbit hole of planning a cruise in northern Vietnam, you already know… it’s a lot. Too many bays, too many boats, too many conflicting reviews. We’ve been there. Brain = fried.
We started exactly where most people do: dreaming of a classic cruise through Ha Long Bay. But after hours of research (and a little decision fatigue), we ended up somewhere better than we expected: Bai Tu Long Bay.
Here’s how it all shook out—and why we’d make the same choice again.
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Ha Long Bay: The Icon (But Also the Crowds)
Let’s start with the obvious.
Ha Long Bay is stunning. Those towering limestone karsts rising out of emerald water? Unreal. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site for a reason.
But here’s what we kept seeing (and later experienced ourselves briefly):
- Tons of boats—like, a surprising number
- Certain areas feeling crowded and overly touristy
- Mixed reports about water quality and garbage
We actually sailed through Ha Long Bay on our first day, and honestly… the number of boats confirmed everything we’d read. It felt busy.
👉 Worth seeing? Sure.
👉 Worth staying overnight there? For us, not really.
Lan Ha Bay: The Middle Ground
Next up: Lan Ha Bay.
This is where we almost booked.
It’s just south of Ha Long Bay and:
- Less crowded
- Cleaner waters (generally)
- Still absolutely beautiful
But this is where our planning spiral really kicked in:
- Do we leave early from Hanoi for a 3-hour transfer?
- Do we stay on Cat Ba Island first?
- Which cruise company do we even choose?!
- Why are there SO many options?!
And then there was the buffet situation…
Most cruises offered buffet-style dining, which—if you’re even slightly germ-aware like me—is not exactly relaxing on vacation.
At this point, we were overwhelmed and no closer to booking.
Bai Tu Long Bay: The Hidden Gem (Our Pick)
Then everything changed thanks to a random travel conversation in Koh Samui about 2 months prior.
Another slow-travel couple we met told us:
“Skip the crowds. Go to Bai Tu Long Bay.”
Sold.
Bai Tu Long Bay is northeast of Ha Long Bay and:
- Way fewer boats
- Quiet, peaceful, and non-touristy
- Just as stunning (arguably more, because you can actually enjoy it)
We booked a 3-day, 2-night cruise with Indochina Junk on the Dragon Legend II—and it ended up being the highlight of our entire Vietnam trip. Each of the two Dragon Legend ships is intentionally small, with just 24 luxury cabins, which gives the whole experience a boutique, uncrowded feel. The cabins are designed in a traditional Vietnamese style but don’t sacrifice comfort—think large sea-view windows, private bathrooms, and all the modern amenities you actually want after a day out on the water. It felt more like a floating boutique hotel than a typical cruise.
Our Experience: Why It Was 100% Worth It
The Vibe
Once we left Ha Long Bay behind, everything changed.
- Sometimes we were the only boat in sight
- No chaos, no noise—just calm water and dramatic karsts
- The sunsets? Unreal
It didn’t feel touristy. It felt special.
The Food (No Buffets 🙌)
This was a huge win.
Instead of buffets, we had:
- Tasting menu-style seafood dinners
- Fresh, beautifully plated dishes
- A full beach BBQ set up just for us (tables, umbrellas, the whole thing)
Everything was cooked to perfection—and felt like an experience, not a feeding frenzy.
The Activities (Optional = Perfect)
We loved that nothing felt forced.
You could:
- Explore Thien Canh Son Cave
- Visit a floating fishing village
- Kayak through the karsts
- Tour a pearl farm (yes, we watched them open an oyster and a pearl just popped out)
Or… you could do absolutely nothing and just sit on the deck.
We chose to do everything—and still had tons of downtime.
The Reality Check: Yes, There Was Still Some Garbage
As magical as Bai Tu Long Bay felt, it wasn’t perfect—and it’s important to say that.
We did still see some garbage in the water at times. Not enough to ruin the experience, but enough to notice. And honestly… it was a bit sad, especially knowing that this region relies heavily on fishing and seafood as a way of life.
Why Is There Garbage?
From what we learned, it’s a mix of factors:
- Years of rapid tourism growth, especially around Ha Long Bay
- Waste management challenges in floating communities
- Everyday life on the water—where disposal systems haven’t always existed
For generations, many of the floating villages lived entirely on the water, without formal waste infrastructure. So a lot of habits were simply… different.
The Good News: It’s Improving
The Vietnamese government has been stepping in over the past decade to address this.
- Stricter environmental regulations were introduced around 2017
- Some floating villages have been relocated to the mainland
- Education programs have helped teach conservation and sustainable practices
- Cruise operators (especially smaller ones like Indochina Junk) are now much more mindful about waste and environmental impact
And you can tell there’s progress being made.
In the quieter areas of Bai Tu Long Bay, the water was noticeably cleaner than what we saw while passing through Ha Long Bay. It’s not perfect—but it’s moving in the right direction.
Floating Villages: A Glimpse Into Another Life
One of the most fascinating parts was visiting a floating village.
These are entire communities built on the water:
- Homes on floating platforms
- No electricity (my kiddo was like – what? No Wi-Fi?)
- Boats instead of cars
- Fishing as a way of life
It’s a completely different world—and a reminder of how connected life here is to the sea.
Getting There (And the Unexpected Stops Along the Way)
One of the things we really appreciated about booking with Indochina Junk was that transport from Hanoi and back was included, which made logistics so much easier. No early-morning stress trying to figure out buses or transfers—it was all handled.
Of course, like most transfers in Vietnam, there were a couple of shopping stops along the way… and yes, we fully got pulled in—but honestly, we didn’t even mind this time.
One stop was at an art workshop that supports individuals with disabilities, where we got to watch artists creating intricate hand-embroidered pieces and lacquer art right in front of us. The craftsmanship was incredible. And if you’ve read any of our other posts, you know we’ve been trying to collect art from each place we visit—so this felt like the moment.
We ended up buying one of each (zero regrets) and even got photos with the artists, which made it feel even more special.
We were also treated to a traditional Vietnamese water puppet show, which was such a cool full-circle moment for us. We had actually covered water puppetry in one of our homeschool units while learning about Vietnam and its different art styles—so seeing it live, on the water, brought everything to life in a way that just hits differently when you’re actually there.
So… Which Bay Should You Choose?
Here’s the honest breakdown:
- Choose Ha Long Bay if:
It’s your first time and you just want to see it, crowds and all. - Choose Lan Ha Bay if:
You want a balance—still popular, but less intense. - Choose Bai Tu Long Bay if:
You want something quieter, more relaxed, and honestly… more magical.
| The Syps Family Bai Tu Long Bay Tips 🐚 Book your Cruise at least 2-3 months in advance to secure your spot 🐚 Be sure to check if transportation is included or extra to and from Hanoi 🐚 Bring a Dry Bag (a must for kayaking & transfers). Protect your phone, camera, and anything you don’t want soaked. 🐚 If you are sensitive, Motion Sickness Bands or Patches are a must. Even in calm waters, better safe than sorry—especially overnight. 🐚 Reef-Safe Sunscreen. You’re out on the water a lot—protect your skin and the environment. |
The Syps Survival Summary
Did we survive the Vietnam cruise decision spiral? Barely. There were multiple spreadsheets involved.
Was Bai Tu Long Bay worth it?
👉 Absolutely—and we’d choose it again in a heartbeat.
We went into this thinking we were booking a “nice cruise.”
We came out of it with one of the best travel experiences we’ve ever had.
If you’re overwhelmed by the options, take this as your sign:
Skip the stress. Skip the crowds.
Go to Bai Tu Long Bay.